A screen-shot from Pinterest of the first images to appear with the search term ‘pretty hair’
It’s kind of unusual for me to talk about this kinda stuff on the blog, but there’s something I gotta get off my chest.
A little while ago I was perusing one of the new online shelter mags and while everything was very pretty, something was missing for me. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was–the art direction was beautiful, great photography–and then it dawned on me as I glanced through the contributors’ pages, there was an obvious lack of ethnic diversity among the contributors. The same was true of the content and the people featured in the various stories.
There was a lot of noise in the fashion industry a few years back because of the lack of black models represented in glossy magazines and on runways. Jezebel wrote an article questioning if Vogue was racist and pointed out numerous consecutive issues of the Magazine where zero black models appeared. Even the New York Times discussed how the runways were ‘ignoring diversity’ and ‘fading to white.’ This year, Jezebel reported that Fashion Week was the “whitest it’s been in years,” and I began to wonder if the shelter magazines and design blogs didn’t have the same problem.
The more I tune into it, the more I notice a segregation. If I see a black face on a design blog, most of the time the blog’s author is a person of color. Frida Kahlo is just about the only Latina I ever see represented on design blogs. Looking at my Pinterest feed, I notice picture after picture of Christina Hendrix, of Audrey Hepburn, Kate Moss or skinny blond women twisting their hair into fancy updos, of bride after bride after bride, all with the same pale skin and wispy hair. Looking through photographers’ porfolios and perusing some of my very favorite blogs, I am hard-pressed to find any people of color. Checking out speaker lists for prominent design summits, and in the contributors pages of great design magazines I feel the same way. Am I alone here, or have you, too noticed a lack of diversity?
Now, do I think most design bloggers and magazine editors are racist? No.
Do I think that the design blogosphere and shelter mags fail to represent the diversity of their audiences? Yes.
Why? Is it because we have inadvertently internalized a racist ideal of beauty? Does it have to do with blogging being a ‘sport of leisure’ that only certain demographics can afford to take part in?
Have you noticed this pattern (or should I say ‘rut’)? If so, why do you think that there is this lack of diversity?
Not long after I picked up the aforementioned shelter mag, I heard a story on NPR while stuck in the tedious LA traffic. The story detailed how HGTV (one of my favorite TV Networks) diversified their shows to more fairly reflect the diversity of the country and their viewership by African Americans increased by 50%. Their prime time viewership increased by a staggering 20%.
That information supported an idea I had about diversity in the design world. Designers and creatives like diversity. Diversity in TV shows, on the runways, on the blogs and in the magazines make stories more representative, more real, adds texture, color and even makes them more popular. I also find that diversity makes blogs and magazines more compelling.
What are your thoughts? Have you noticed segregation in the blogosphere? Do you ever feel like you aren’t being represented? I would love to hear your thoughts on this topic– whether this is the first time you’ve ever thought about it, or it’s something that you notice every day. I am going to continue to make an effort to show ethnic and stylistic diversity on this blog, and I’m going to continue to challenge the notion that sameness makes for compelling design. Let’s stir the pot a little, mix things up?
So Justina, my rant is not really to do with color, but while we’re on the topic of diversity what bugs me no end is the size and shape of models in most print and online media. Being a curvy woman I always feel I’m on the outside looking in on all that is going on in the fashion world. How many size twelve models have you seen in print? I’d love to see it become more mainstream– i’d also love to see clothes that are actually designed for curves, rather than just having to go one size higher to adapt to a larger bust or hip. And could we please have them more affordable? Because not all of us can afford to shop at boutiques!
As far as color goes, I’ve never felt I’m not represented in the online world, because frankly, I’ve sought out “my own kind” (I know that has shades of racist in it too!–totally not intentional tho’–just that bloggers with the same background, in my case south-east asian, tend to have similar tastes in style, be it home decor or personal fashion.) So we tend to flock together–is that a bad thing? not so sure. My point in this long-winded comment (sorry!) is that maybe people just tend to create inspiration boards of styles that they can use? Ones that suit say their hair texture (straight, long, short, curly, wavy) or body shapes (referring to the former part of my comment). For instance, an inspiration board that I would create wouldn’t really have too many pastels in it simply because I don’t like the way they look next to my skin –they don’t “do” anything for me. Over time, I’ve realized I automatically gravitate toward jewel tones instead of pastels. Of course this is speaking of personal preferences, so I totally get bloggers who don’t document as much diversity.
However, when we’re talking print/online magazines, I feel that they definitely need more diversity in them, both in terms of color and shape. They have a larger readership, and, with that, a larger share of the responsibility as well. One of the things I love most about living in the US is the diversity it has exposed me to, I feel that this is one of its biggest strengths. I’d love to see more of this diversity in print.
encouragement
We should encourage diversity, perhaps writing a letter to the editor, or writer. it a simple idea but it as start.
Interesting that is what comes up on Pinterest. Then again, it depends on how thing are labled on Pinterest. Maybe if the keyword “pretty curly hair” “pretty thick hair” or something along that line might show more diversity?? Anyways. I do follow a lot of bloggers that come from different backgrounds but I do agree with you about the popular magazines, there is not equal representation. When there is representation there has to be a “Color Issue” or “Diversity Issue” as if they are warning us of what to expect. Maybe they feel their readers wouldn’t want to spend the money on the magazine if it’s catering towards several cultures/backgrounds??” I don’t know. I think we need to have a close to even mixture, do away with issues that are race specific. In a way you could say that it’s modern segregation. Let’s celebrate EVERYONE!! ALL DAY EVERYDAY!!
I wholly agree with GB regarding size segregation. I rarely see women with my shape represented in magazines or on blogs. I’m not even big! I had noticed that HGTV has added a lot more diversity to their line up and while I think that is great I hadn’t really thought about it until you mentioned it. I suppose because I live in LA I am used to a huge range of ethnic diversity and it seems weird not to see that represented. It didn’t affect my enjoyment of the programing!
I absolutely love this post. And I’m a little ashamed that I never took the time to think about it before. It’s like we take it for granted and never really realise that there’s so much more to see out there. Thank you!
Besos!
I read Keiko Lyn’s fashion blog… she’s like me: part Asian.
I know what you mean, though… I rarely see diversity in fashion, although there have been a few gorgeous black models out there… Iman, and maybe a few others. There aren’t many Asian models, which is possibly due to their lack of height. I don’t know… but some diversity would be refreshing.
Glamour has been showing women of different shapes and sizes, so it’s the only fashion magazine that I’ll actually buy. I always end up feeling pretty good about myself after flipping through Glamour. That’s a new feeling after looking at a fashion mag!
@GB first off, thank you for taking the time to write such a thoughtful comment. I agree that if you ‘seek out your kind’ you will feel rep’ed–but that’s kinda my point… Beauty is everywhere so I wish that diversity could be more visible and represented all over the place. As for your notions about size representation, I completely and wholeheartedly agree, and I also think that this issue could be related to similar narrow ideals of beauty. As as size 14 myself, I very rarely see women of my size rep’ed in the design world, and it’s getting old. In fact, lately I have a few people suggest to me that I start doing a what I wore column on the blog too ( in addition to faith’s) to start fighting those size 2 beauty ideals, and from the sound of some of your comments maybe I will,
@anon I think writing.letters to editors is a great idea. I talk to a lot of people about this as a consultant, and most are happy to hear the feedback.
@thread baroness I dont feel like I’m that big either, but I feel the same way. Let stir the size pot too!!
@Manu thank you! So glad you enjoyed the post. Don’t feel at all ashamed… One of the reasons I decided to bring this up on the blog is because I recognize that people are just not thinking about it.
Thanks for all the love and thoughtfulness,friends!
@Shari true that Asian women rarely appear in the foreground in the design world. Vera Wang didn’t even have any Asian women in her fall show. It’s even more strange because I know so many Asian American designers, editors and art directors, you’d think that more asian women would be rep’ed.
Dear Justina,
I really enjoyed this post and all the comments from the other readers. I really hope you’ll do a regular column on your fashion style. Personally I’m a size 14 too and I think that’s one of the main reasons I stopped buying fashion magazines. I just couldn’t see myself in half the clothes/styles that were presented.
I would love to see more curvy women with colourful and personal styles appear in magazines and online.
I just be a jaded person.
It’s hard to muster up enough energy to feel outraged about the smallness of minds and hearts.
Essentially, that’s all it is and sadly it exists in one form or another in many parts of life.
Lacking vision, conformist, elitist, ignorance are just some words that come to mind.
I believe they all come from the same place – fear – and fear is such a powerful force and is manifested by many different things.
Though supposedly promoting aspiration they are reinforcing elitism.
Whatever.
Let them do what they want.
Ultimately they are irrelevant to the realness of life.
I’d much rather visit people and places which show an open heart (just like compai!) and enrich my life.
For the record – I’m not a pure whitey – I’m like probably 90% of the world’s population – a mixed breed.
@Maddelaine – thank you for your kind words. I will totally take to heart and figure out how to rep more curvy ladies online, myself included! I think it would make a lovely, and much needed column on the blog.
@freefalling
I hear you, me also being mixed– it’s easy to create a ‘let them do what they want’ atmosphere, but my feeling is that many people are doing are demonstrating a lack of diversity inadvertently– it just doesn’t enter their minds. I think by bringing up the issues and talking about them, we may be able to inject some color and some consciousness into the industry– one that affects the self-esteem and psyche of so many young girls and young women.
I’m half black, half white. And while I dont get *outraged* by a lack of diversity I do get frustrated when I am looking for hair ideas and can never find any options for curly hair like mine. Sure there are plenty of styles for wavy hair or slightly curly hair, but not much for us black or mixed girls.
Growing up in Orange County Ca I hated my hair because all of my friends were either white or asian, so they had hair and bodies completely different from mine. And I tried my hardest to look like them.
Now I have embraced my curly hair and curvy body and “different” looks, but I sometimes still find myself pining after hairstyles that I know would never work for curly hair simply because I am surrounded by it. I wish that it was easier to find hair styles or clothing ideas that fit my hair and body type instead of wishing that I was white!
Very thought provoking post. Thanks for speaking up! After reading a similarly themed post about the scarcity of people of color in the craft world, I was encouraged to put a picture of myself on my blog. I don’t blog about race and culture explicitly (it’s a blog about gift wrapping!), but I felt it was an important statement to let readers know a bit about me and where I’m coming from.
Wow, this is a great post. I have definitely stopped reading blogs that, while I really liked the styles being represented, get depressing after a while when I realized that its author clearly didn’t share with me a reciprocal view of beauty, because my likeness is never reflected in their aesthetic. When they’re your favorites, though, it sometimes creeps up on you slowly, because you’re loathe to turn something positive into something negative, but that sense of alienation is real. I think the image you use above is a perfect example–I spend a lot of time online daily, and look at dozens of blogs, and I have NEVER seen a post by a non-black blogger that calls a black woman’s hair pretty. NEVER. Is that racism? Well, yeah, I would say so. Racism isn’t always hostile. Racism can be complete and utter disregard for a person’s existence without even being conscious of it.
In a more subtle though no less insidious way: Years ago I started paying attention to the art books that are used by art directors in interior design layouts as well as the books depicted on real “stylish” people’s shelves in editorials. They’re not incidental–they’re as carefully chosen as every other element. There are virtually never any books by or about black artists–I think I’ve seen a Jean-Michel Basquiat title once, but that’s it. If anyone is paying attention, this kind of exclusion just reinforces notions of “not as interesting or as good as…” at every level. It’s just endemic to this culture.
“Have you noticed segregation in the blogosphere? Do you ever feel like you aren’t being represented?”
Yes yes yes yes yes and yes!
Thanks so much for writing this.
It’s frustrating and annoying and it’s a conversation that ALWAYS comes up among my fellow bloggers and designers of color.
I have SO many thoughts about this, but the main thing I will say is not only is there a lack of diversity in design as a discipline (which I’m passionate about addressing — my graphic design thesis project in grad school was based on this topic) but I also see a similar problem in the people who get recognized for their work as designers, bloggers, writers, etc.
Specifically with blogging; whether it’s a panel of speakers at a blogging conference or features in a magazine (i.e. Lucky’s 2011 September issue dedicated to bloggers did not have one brown lady) the same people are recycled over and over. There is absolutely no effort to seek and promote cross-cultural talent. This upsets me because I know so many stylish, talented, creative women of color who deserve the recognition and attention, and the opportunity to share their stories and skills.
I’ll end it here, but I truly know that supporting each other is the first step to making a change.
@Nikki- I hear you!! Being mixed black and white leaves a lot of guessing on the hair front!I use and love Mixed Chicks hair products especially their leave-in-conditioner.
@Carla – thank you for your thoughtful and insightful comment. You are absolutely right about Black artists’ lack of representation, and I’ve noticed a lot of the same patterns. it’s sad and ugly and hopefully by discussing openly about it in formats like this, people will start to at least notice their own prejudices and racism, and try to attack it. And yes, it’s endemic, but maybe as time passes and more sharing and mixing and learning and growing happens, things wil start to change. Call me an optimist.
@Andrea Agreed! I love recycling– but recycling of the same ol’ folks over and over? It’s tired. Love how you close off your comment– it *is* about supporting one another.
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This week i had an interesting discussion about (http://www.compaiblog.com/2011/09/diversity-in-design.html) with my colleagues and i’m
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Wow. This is such a good post, and I’m so happy to read it. I totally agree with you. I would love to see more diversity in the media. Our world IS diverse in many ways, not just racial…so why do we settle for media that is soooo repetitive?
I agree with the commenter above – the blogs that don’t portray a diverse reality, and, in general, a more nuanced and complex idea of beauty don’t interest or inspire me. I usually don’t visit them.
Thanks so much. : )
i absolutely love this. i have long thought that there was a pretty huge white-wash on the blog community…i have a hard time seeing if it’s discrimination in some way or just a lack of participation from other races, you know?
either way, thanks for talking about it.
@Charissa I’d love to check out the diversity in craft post if you remember where it was posted.
@Alisha, I’d be happy to take a look at what you’ve written to see if it’s a good fit for Compai. just email me!
@Susy – Thank you! It really does mean a lot coming from a designer I respect so much. I am also totally uninspired my the heaps of sameness on the blogosphere…
@lizzie I have at time wondered the same thing, but I am at the point where I feel like many, many design blogs are practicing defacto segregation.
Yes and yes and yes. And the big blogs have been called out on their lack of representation and sometimes, downright racist posts, but not much seems to have come of it. I’m not sure what the solution is but I’m glad you posted about it. Gives us all something to think about.
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