After living in Italy for seven years in my twenties, I was really excited (and honored) by the opportunity to go back to la bella Italia this time, with my family, to teach a workshop with Bianca from Italian Fix. We were heading to the Cinqueterre…
I’m not gonna lie. Arriving at the hotel in Riomaggiore was a serious MISSION. After our 12 hour flight (Ida was a champ) we spent the night in Florence and then hopped on a train to the Cinqueterre the next morning. It was hot and muggy. We had to change trains which involved a lot of stairs while carrying suitcases and a certain sleepy little munchkin. Once we got to the nearest city, we took a cab to Riomaggiore (one of the five ‘terre’) but the cab could only take us close, not all the way, because cars aren’t allowed in Riomaggiore (or so he told us). Long story only slightly shorter, after wandering around Riomaggiore for about 30 minutes in the blistering heat and receiving ridiculously bad directions from the folks at the tourist office (the hotel is “behind the church”, and of course there are three churches, OY!) I called Bianca quite desperate and she met us and showed us to our hotel which was, a mere 148 stairs up from the main road (yes, I counted). As we lugged our heavy suitcases up the steps (why had I brought three pairs of shoes for 10 days again??) I thought Jason might divorce me.
But when we got to the top, and looked down to see this…almost all of our fatigue and frustrations melted away…
Our hotel, Cinqueterre Residence, was simple and perfect. It had very tasty breakfasts, a killer view and a cool soaking pool (that we dubbed a cool-poozi). After settleing into the hotel, we learned that the cab driver had dropped us off in the wrong place. Had he known where the hotel was, he would have dropped us off at the top of the hill, where cars are allowed and where there are a handful steps down to hotel reception and a pulley for the luggage. Go figure.
Our first delicious meal paired with some exquisite wine and we already felt the schlepp was worth it.
The weekend was spent in Riomaggiore, hiking up and down those steep steps, and keeping cool with dips in the cool-poozi and the Mediterranean and by eating decidedly GINORMOUS gelati. Ida was in heaven. We watercolored, read, and relaxed. It was awesome.
Photo: Zio and Sons
Then I taught my 2-day workshop to a really amazing group of people. The first day was dedicated to tapping into ones creativity and the second day was all about how to apply that creativity to a creative business. It was pretty intense, but in the best way possible. You can read recaps from some of the people who came on the trip here, here and here.
And then after class was over…well, it was time to play!
And EAT! I loved this little hole-in-the-wall spot that made fresh pasta. You pick the pasta, you pick the sauce, they cook it right there and it’s pretty much the best thing ever. There’s a big part of me that wants to drop everything and open up one of these in Silverlake :D
We took the ferry boat to the different terre and explored by water….
The water was a crazy shade…I was just in disbelief as I hiked up and down the steep and uneven steps, turning my head in every direction and seeing beauty, like serious beauty all around me… 
We made it to four of the five terre in the end and stayed at Residence the whole time. I don’t regret that because getting around in the Cinquerre ain’t easy. By the time we got home to the U.S. I was simultaneously refreshed and exhausted. I was proud of us and Ida for taking our first big family trip together. She’s a real trooper and I’m so grateful.
A huge thanks to Bianca for the impetus and the invite, to Jason and Ida for the company, and to everyone who came out to take the Dreamathon course– you guys are so inspiring and I loved spending time with you in Italy!!
And here’s a little cheat sheet in case any of you are thinking about making a trip out:
Trip Organizer: Italian Fix
Where we stayed: Cinque Terre Residence
Favorite Terra: We loved Riomaggiore, but next time, I think I’d stay at Monterosso al Mare because it seemed more kid friendly with easily accessible play grounds and it’s more flat and therefor much easier to get around in. The beaches are also very gentle and swimmable.
What saved us: That fresh pasta spot saved us, because eating out everyday can get really expensive. We ate one meal a day there and spent about $20 for all three of us for a meal.
What we’d do differently next time: Next time I’d try to plan the trip when it wasn’t so hot. Italy in August shuts down–the big cities are kinda dead and the beach-towns are super crowded, so next time I think I’d try and go a bit off season so we could enjoy the beaches a bit more and not bake in the sun.
What I’d do again: I’d take Ida on an international trip again. It was a great experience for the three of us to hang out and experience something so new and different. Ida came back speaking a few Italian words and I’m excited to start planning our next family getaway.
Holy smokes! This trip was so much fun. I really miss everybody. AND your blog post captures everything SO beautifully I almost want to take mine down, lol. Thank you so much Justina for your open heart, patience, and sharing your family. I’ll always remember Ida throwing her clothes at me and running down to the sea in her birthday suit. :)))
Big hugs!
don’t you dare take down your post!! It’s ADORABLE!! It was so amazing hanging with you in Italia!
What a lovely experience you guys had. The pictures are beautiful.
Justina, those photos are gorgeous! I have been to le Cinqueterre and it was such a treat to see them again through your photos and eyes. Great post!
1) Love Jason’s haircut and am glad you survived the steps and therefore your marriage
2) Your trip makes me want to go to Italy
3) As a Washington, DC mother who has taken her child and husband to Europe several times over, I applaud your experience to travel with your family!
4) Keep surprising yourself! You are doing amazing!
You are simply the sweetest :) and I like Jason’s haircut and am glad he didn’t divorce me too :D
I would LOVE to go there !
I loved Italy so much I can’t wait to return and explore other areas. So much to see.
I loved to reading your post today and the links to Nikki, Deepa and Anuschka’s posts as well. It was wonderful to be taken back to Italy for just a little while. What a wonderful experience it all was and amazing friendships gained as well. Thank you for sharing yourself, your family and your gifts with us! xoxo Caio.
Wow!! Your photos are absolutely breathtaking! Adding Cinque Terre to my “visit someday” list STAT!
Justina, your photos are fabulous, makes me so want to go there, even after reading about all those steps. I am lucky to travel to Europe quite a bit, and my favorite thing to do is just immerse myself in a new place get lost have adventures and be inspired. Thank you for taking us on this journey with you, love reading your blog, your husband is a trooper
and your daughter couldn’t be any cuter! :-)
I’ve been feeling Italy lately, so this post must be a sign that I should go, right? Such beautiful pictures and a beautiful family. I was in Cinque Terre back in high school, and I loved it. The first time I ever had gnocchi!
Analog House
http://theanaloghouse.blogspot.com/
Gorgeous and happy pictures. All this post feels like summer should feel-happy and gorgeous.
wonderful recommendations and even more gorgeous photos!
Great post Justina! It captures our wonderful stay in Cinque Terre very well! Thanks again for an amazing experience! I would do it again! Ciao Bella!
oh my good lord, that is beautiful. water like that…i’m just pictures don’t even do it justice. someday!
I’ve stayed in Riomaggiore and Vernazza and Vernazza is by far my favorite. Cinque Terre is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen! Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing!! I’m so glad I finally got the chance to have a look at your trip scrapbook. SO beautiful. You totally reminded me of the train thing…we did the same from Florence to Monaco…so past CinqueTerre- which looked magnificent (!)- I remember only having 6 minutes at our last stop to get up and off the train, down the stairs, find the next platform, up the stairs and onto the train with all our luggage…and we were so tired and stinky and hungry and over it. But alas, it all ends up being totally worth it, because what a crazy beautiful part of the world. Congrats on the awesome opportunity…I’m coming next time- ha!
Oh, and Ida’s curls and rosy cheeks. Wowzers! X
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